Punk, Icon, Activist |
09/01/19
Whilst back in my hometown of Glossop, I decided it was the perfect time to dedicate a post to fellow Glossopian, Vivienne Westwood, one of the most influential and outspoken designers of all time.
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Westwood rose to fame in the late 1970s. With Malcom McLaren, Westwood dressed the punk movement from their shop on Kings Road, London. From 1971 to 1980 the shop constantly evolved and rebranded, keeping up to date with Westwoods views and motivations. From ‘Let It Rock’, to ‘Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die’, to ‘SEX’ – the shop with a façade of 4ft pink lettering which famously confronted social and sexual taboos and specialised in clothing that defined the punk movement. SEX sold T-shirts bearing images of the Cambridge Rapist's face hood, semi-naked cowboy, bare breasts and pornographic texts from the book School for Wives. Among the designs were clear plastic-pocketed jeans, zippered tops and the Anarchy shirt which used dead stock from the 1960s manufacturer Wemblex. These were bleached and dyed shirts and adorned with silk Karl Marx patches and anarchist slogans. In 1976 the shop became ‘Seditionaries’, then in late 1980 ‘World’s End’ which it remains open as today, as part of Westwoods global fashion empire.
In the early Eighties, she moved to Paris where she was the first designer to bring British street culture to the international catwalk. She dressed supermodels, translating the rigor and shock value of punk music into reappropriated, dynastic tartan with safety pins, tulle and slogans. For more than 30 years, even after she had long made her fortune and fame, Westwood lived in the same small South London apartment, paying just £400 a month for the home and riding her bike to her studio in Battersea. Westwood continues to dominate the fashion industry. Dressing the likes of Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell – who famously tripped in Westwood’s notoriously high platform heels. Her influence is hard to deny. Twice she has been named British designer of the year and has been awarded an O.B.E (which she received knicker-less - revealed by a celebratory spin - much to the surprise of photographers) and a D.B.E. |
More than just the aesthetic of her designs, I think she is a fascinating character. What I find most interesting is the way she uses great design, and her influence to share her political views and activism. It’s not just her original boutique, or even her clothing, is political; politics are in the DNA of her runway shows, public statements, and even the way she addresses media. Her collections are always manifestoes and calls to rally. In the lead up to the 2014 Scottish independence referendum her models were sent down the catwalk wearing ‘YES’ badges, and for fall 2017 she implored her audience to convert to green energy, refocus attention on the environment and buy less by sharing clothes. She has also been involved in campaigns involving anti-terror, ethical fashion and fracking. In one famous incident she impersonated Margaret Thatcher on the cover of a British magazine; wearing a suit Thatcher had ordered but not yet received. She has an outspokenness and daring that demonstrates a certain level of fearlessness about her and her work. The internet is littered with videos and interviews of Westwood sharing her views and trying to save us from the disaster the world has become. Similar videos of anyone else might be called mad and ignored, but Westwood has the authority to be listened to, and I think a lot of what she says makes sense. I particularly like her message on sustainability – “Buy less, choose well, make it last” (perhaps hypocritical from a company that brings out multiple collections a year?). I think the message of quality products over quantity, and the resistance against fast fashion is an important one for our generation. In the recent documentary ‘Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist’, she talks negatively about the growth of her own company, complaining that it has become too big. The problem is the unnecessary production of so much stuff - people don’t need it; and also perhaps the loss of total control for Westwood. But perhaps it doesn’t matter what you think of her. Westwood has spoken out about Theresa May on numerous occasions, yet May regularly wears her Tartan Suit by Vivienne Westwood – recently seem in it whilst delivering a highly anticipated speech detailing her plans for Brexit. "Do I mind if Theresa May wears my clothes? No, but I certainly don’t admire her for anything. I think she’s awful."
Maybe I just like anyone interesting and controversial, but I think Westwoods influence is incredible. She is great designer, fashion icon, and so much more. |
Sources:
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/nov/15/fashion
https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/24335/1/vivienne-westwood-s-top-ten-political-moments
Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (film, 2018)
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/nov/15/fashion
https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/24335/1/vivienne-westwood-s-top-ten-political-moments
Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (film, 2018)